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The Cultivation of Pendula
Begonias By Bert Weir
Pendula Begonias have long been favourites of the
gardening public, and with justification. A Pendula begonia on display at
a flower show, bearing a profusion of flowers is a sight that
always causes great admiration, and gives the grower much satisfaction.
They are grown mainly in hanging baskets where their
pendulous habit can be displayed to great effect, but can equally be grown
in the modern containers now available.

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Although the culture of pendulous
begonias generally follows that of the large flowered hybrids, there are
certain key differences that if followed will ensure a specimen
plant fit for the show bench. The key areas of difference are as
follows. |
- If the plant is to achieve its full potential
it is desirable to start the tubers into growth approximately one
month before the normal starting date for the large flowered
varieties. Provided a propagator is available an ideal starting time
is mid February. If you do not have a propagator, a
later start will still produce a satisfactory plant, but remember the
aim is to produce an exhibition quality plant at its peak for the
August shows.
- Whereas the number of shoots produced on the
large flowered hybrids is generally restricted to only
one, on the Pendula tuber all shoots produced should be allowed to
develop. Consequently take the minimum number of basal cuttings
necessary to maintain your stock.
- To enhance the beauty of the plant during the
flowering period, both male and female flowers are left on, as it is the mass of flowers that is important, not the size or form of
an individual flower.
- The principal objective is to develop as many
stems, and consequently, as many flowers as possible since it is the
weight of flowers produced that pulls the stems over the side of the
container to produce the pendulous effect.
How many tubers
per pot ? Carefully check the show schedule and stick to the
number where specified. In practice the size of the tuber in
relation to the size of the container determines the number.
An ideal arrangement with tubers of one to two inches is to
grow three plants in a ten to twelve inch container. If you
have a large tuber of four inches then one to a container of
the same size should suffice. Bear in mind that pendulas tend
to be very vigorous and require plenty room. |
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As mentioned previously tubers should be started
early using plastic seed trays in a 50/50 mix of peat and sand, or any of
the commercial soil-less seed composts, and placed in a propagator set
at 65/70 F. After approx. three weeks the tubers will be well
established with a good root system and should be transferred to their
final pot or basket that is filled with the compost of your choice.
The growth should now be fairly rapid and when the stems are approx.
six inches long the first flower buds will start to appear and at this
stage all
stems are cut back to below a leaf joint showing an eye. All the eyes
below the cut will now grow on and there will be three or four shoots
where only one existed before. The plant will now look pretty sorry but it will quickly recover and the new side shoots develop
at a fairly rapid rate. When the side shoots show buds, nip out the
growing point again, this will induce a further lot of side shoots,
that are the ones to produce flowers. For a specific date allow
5/6 weeks for three quarter inch buds to reach full flower.

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Pendulas, when in full bloom tend
to be fairly gross feeders, so commence feeding after
the stems are cut back using a high potash fertiliser of your
choice. Two popular types being Phostrogen or Maxicrop but
any fertiliser with high potash content will be equally
satisfactory. Feeding twice at half strength is much wiser than
once at full strength. |
Watering is one area with which many growers find
difficulty. It is one of the most important and difficult operations with
any plant, in particular the begonia. The best advice is to give the plant
a good watering from the top and refrain from further watering until it
becomes dry again. Plants with weak root systems are particularly
vulnerable, remember most plants can be ruined by
overwatering.
Do not be tempted to take short cuts during the
growing period as any attempt to do so will be reflected in the final
quality of your plant. The advice given has been well tried and tested,
and if followed will produce a plant that will give great satisfaction and
hopefully make all the effort worthwhile.
A final word of caution, plants grown by this
method can be up to three feet in diameter, and two feet deep, so for
those wishing to show make sure they can be moved without damage.
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